Now it's true that some producers have, in recent years, cut back on the heavy, buttery style that was the California hallmark, and begun to make more restrained, food-friendly, European-style Chardonnays. They will never acknowledge this, of course, as it would make them sound déclassé-if not venal and calculating-but it is what they are doing. Unfortunately, this also results in wine that's rather insipid when drunk with food. Naturally America's winemakers, not immune to the lure of profit, have responded to this trend by making Chardonnay specifically designed to be drunk as cocktail wine and, like most cocktails, it has more than a touch of sweetness to it. Unlike most Europeans, who drink wine with food, Americans consume an awful lot of the stuff before their meal, as a cocktail-the "Oh, I'll have a glass of Chardonnay" syndrome. Americans are drinking more and more wine all the time, and while this is good news for us wine lovers, as it means an ever wider and more interesting selection of vino, there is, as always, a dark lining to this glowing red, white and rosé cloud.
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